Helpful Tips

This part of the website is for those little tips and other interesting things that you come across once and awhile.

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Clean bucket of HOT (as hot as you can stand) water, sunlight dishsoap (good ol type, not the new fangled anti-bacterial junk), and some water de-hardener (don't need if you have a water softener system).

In the shade if possible, (reduces self drying of hot surfaces), spray with "fine mist" or "shower" setting with a garden nozzle to thoroughly wet the bike and any bug remnants, and to remove the fine dust that could create the dreaded swirl marks. For heavy bugs, you can pre-spray bug carcasses with windex (non-ammonia type) for a pre-soak. (spray nine and fanstastik work well too, but windex is a little easier on your paint and rubberized components. If you have any laying around, bug-remover windshield washer fluid in a pray bottle works well too, and can be diluted to save a bit more coin).

Surface tools - I like the armor-all sponge, with the 'finger-like' texture / covering. Works like a damn. Chrome, tight spots (like bar risers, attachment brackets, etc) and wheels / rotors, I use a nylon bristle brush (in a cone shape), but no drill or motorized brush versions - too easy to slip and swirl up your paint or bugger up small rubber bushings, etc).

Might be obvious, but I usually wash front to back on topside, rinse off soap to avoid fisheyes / spots from soap. Then front to back again, using a separate / designated sponge, for the bikes midpoint to ground. I know it's anal, but you get most of your chrome and paint with a clean sponge, and less of a chance of pulling fine dust, brake dust, road oils / bike lubricants up onto your windshield, paint, and chrome. (And seat). 6-10 washes I usually buy a new sponge for the top, rotating the other one down the line.

The sunlight detergent does a really good job emulsifying the oils without harsh chemicals / other products that can migrate into rubber bushings / exposed seals. It's also easier on most wax / polish products, reducing the #'s of wax hours in the season. Windex, or even vinegar and water do wonders for chrome (except for headers and pipes).

Cold water rinse allows for a longer dry time before water spots occur. If available, use an air compressor and hand jet to dry bike. (less rubbing of the paint, etc with chamois that can pick up contaminants / scratch causing junk) Working from the center of the bike out (engine tranny etc) reduces the amount of overspray onto already dried areas. Be careful not to get too close / use too strong of pressure or you risk possible damage to smaller / fragile components / wiring clusters.
The air jet can also get into those smaller areas that, despite your best efforts, hide trace amounts of water, which are strategically released by the bike gremlins once you have fully waxed and detailed your ride. (of course, at the same time the first gust of wind in a week nicely deposits dust / junk onto said water droplets and trails.......I think its a conspiracy, but that might just be me

). Also ensure all electrical connections / fuse blocks are DRY, and protected with an approved connector spray / water repellant, if that is something you do.
Grab any remaining droplets with a clean chamois, and viola - done like dinner. Ready to wax / detail with your preferred product, or GIDDY-UP, ride time

Ah yes, don't renege to appropriately check for loose components (I do it at the same time as wash....two stones for one bird, so to speak), and re-lube as required.

Hope that gives someone a tip they haven't heard of yet

Happy trails, and keep'er shiny side up!

50 tips to STAY ALIVE: this and the following article have the same theme so it seems to me that there might actually be something to these tips.

Danni Stockley of the Ontario Chrome Divas sent me this list from the guys at Lone Wolf Clubhouse
There is some very sound and sage advice in this list....

1. Assume you're invisible.
To a lot of drivers, you are. Never make a move based on the assumption that another driver sees you, even if you've made eye contact. Bikes don't register to the four-wheel mind.

2. Be considerate.
The consequences of strafing the jerk du jour or cutting him off, start out bad and get worse. Pretend it was your grandma and smile.

3. Dress for the crash, not the pool or the pub.
Sure, McDonald's is a 5-minute trip, but nobody plans to eat pavement. Modern mesh gear means 100-degree heat and is no excuse for a T-shirt and board shorts.

4. Hope for the best, prepare for the worst.
Assume that car across the intersection will turn across your bow when the light goes green, with or without a turn signal.

5. Leave your ego at home.
The only people who really care if you were faster on the freeway will be the officer and the judge.

6. Pay attention.
Yes, there is a half-naked girl on the billboard. That shock does feels squishy. Meanwhile, you could be drifting toward Big Trouble. Focus.

7. Mirrors only show you part of the picture.
Never change direction without turning your head to make sure the coast really is clear.

8. Be patient.
Always take another second or three before you pull out to pass, ride away from a curb or into freeway traffic from an on-ramp. It's what you don't see that gets you. That extra look could save your butt.

9. Watch your closing speed.
Passing cars at twice their speed or changing lanes to shoot past a row of stopped cars is just asking for trouble.

10. Beware the verge and the merge.
A lot of nasty surprises end up on the sides of the road: empty McDonald's bags, nails, TV antennas, ladders, you name it. Watch for troublesome debris on both sides of the road.

11. Left-turning cars remain a leading killer of motorcyclists.
Don't assume someone will wait for you to dart through the intersection. They're trying to beat the light, too.

12. Beware of cars running traffic lights.
The first few seconds after a signal light changes are the most perilous. Look both ways before barging into an intersection.

13. Check your mirrors.
Do it every time you change lanes, slow down or stop. Be ready to move if another vehicle is about to occupy the space you'd planned to use.

14. Mind the gap.
Remember Drivers Ed? One seconds worth of distance per 10 mph is the old rule of thumb. Better still, scan the next 12 seconds ahead for potential trouble.

15 Beware of boy racers.
They're quick and their drivers tend to be aggressive. Don't assume you've beaten one away from a light or outpaced it in traffic and change lanes without looking. You could end up as a civic hood ornament.

16. Excessive entrance speed hurts.
Its the leading cause of single-bike accidents on twisty roads and racetracks. In Slow, Out Fast is the old adage, and it still works. Dialing up corner speed is safer than scrubbing it off.

17. Don't trust that deer whistle.
Ungulates and other feral beasts prowl at dawn and dusk, so heed those big yellow signs. If you're riding in a target-rich environment, slow down and watch the shoulders.

18. Learn to use both brakes.
The front does most of your stopping, but a little rear brake on corner entry can calm a nervous chassis.

19. Keep the front brake covered always.
Save a single second of reaction time at 60 mph and you can stop 88 feet shorter. Think about that.

20. Look where you want to go.
Use the miracle of target fixation to your advantage. The motorcycle goes where you look, so focus on the solution instead of the problem.

21. Keep your eyes moving.
Traffic is always shifting, so keep scanning for potential trouble. Don't lock your eyes on any one thing for too long unless you're actually dealing with trouble.

22. Think before you act.
Careful whipping around that mica going 7 kph in a 30-kph zone or you could end up with your head in the drivers side door when he turns into the driveway right in front of you.

23. Raise your gaze.
Its too late to do anything about the 20 feet immediately in front of your fender, so scan the road far enough ahead to see trouble and change trajectory.

24. Get your mind right in the driveway.
Most accidents happen during the first 15 minutes of a ride, below 40 mph, near an intersection or driveway. Yes, that could be your driveway.

25. Come to a full stop at that next stop sign.
Put a foot down. Look again. Anything less forces a snap decision with no time to spot potential trouble.

26. Never dive into a gap in stalled traffic.
Cars may have stopped for a reason, and you may not be able to see why until its too late to do anything about it.

27 Don't saddle up more than you can handle.
If you weigh 95 pounds, avoid that 795-pound cruiser. If you're 5-foot-5, forget those towering adventure-tourers.

28. Watch for car doors opening in traffic.
And smacking a car that's swerving around some goofballs open door is just as painful.

29. Don't get in an intersection rut.
Watch for a two-way stop after a string of four-way intersections. If you expect cross-traffic to stop, there could be a painful surprise when it doesn't.

30. Stay in your comfort zone when you're with a group.
Riding over your head is a good way to end up in the ditch. Any bunch worth riding with will have a rendezvous point where you'll be able to link up again.

31. Give your eyes some time to adjust.
A minute or two of low light heading from a well-lighted garage onto dark streets is a good thing. Otherwise, you're essentially flying blind for the first mile or so

32. Master the slow U-turn.
Practice. Park your butt on the outside edge of the seat and lean the bike into the turn, using your body as a counterweight as you pivot around the rear wheel.

33. Who put a stop sign at the top of this hill?
Don't panic. Use the rear brake to keep from rolling back down. Use Mr. Throttle and Mr. Clutch normally and smoothly to pull away.

34. If it looks slippery, assume it is.
A patch of suspicious pavement could be just about anything. Butter Flavor Crisco? Gravel? Mobil 1? Or maybe its nothing. Better to slow down for nothing than go on your head.

35. Bang! A blowout! Now what?
No sudden moves. The motorcycle isn't happy, so be prepared to apply a little calming muscle to maintain course Ease back the throttle, brake gingerly with the good wheel and pull over very smoothly to the shoulder. Big sigh.

36. Drops on the face shield?
Its raining. Lightly misted pavement can be slipperier than when its been rinsed by a downpour, and you never know how much grip there is. Apply maximum-level concentration, caution and smoothness.

37. Emotions in check?
To paraphrase Mr. Ice Cube, chickity-check yourself before you wreck yourself. Emotions are as powerful as any drug, so take inventory every time you saddle up. If you're mad, sad, exhausted or anxious, stay put.

38. Wear good gear.
Wear stuff that fits you and the weather If you're too hot or too cold or fighting with a jacket that binds across the shoulders, you're dangerous. Its that simple.

39. Leave the iPod at home.
You wont hear that cement truck in time with Spinal Tap cranked to 11, but they might like your headphones in intensive care.

40. Learn to swerve.
Be able to do two tight turns in quick succession. Flick left around the bag of briquettes, then right back to your original trajectory. The bike will follow your eyes, so look at the way around, not the briquettes. Now practice till its a reflex.

41. Be smooth at low speeds.
Take some angst out, especially of slow-speed maneuvers, with a bit of rear brake. It adds a welcome bit of stability by minimizing unwelcome weight transfer and potentially bothersome drive line lash.

42. Flashing is good for you.
Turn signals get your attention by flashing, right? So a few easy taps on the pedal or lever before stopping makes your brake light more eye-catching to trailing traffic.

43. Intersections are scary, so hedge your bets.
Put another vehicle between your bike and the possibility of someone running the stop sign/red light on your right and you cut your chances of getting nailed in half.

44. Tune your peripheral vision.
Pick a point near the center of that wall over there. Now scan as far as you can by moving your attention, not your gaze. The more you can see without turning your head, the sooner you can react to trouble.

45. All alone at a light that wont turn green?
Put as much motorcycle as possible directly above the sensor wire usually buried in the pavement beneath you and located by a round or square pattern behind the limit line. If the light still wont change, try putting your kickstand down, right on the wire. You should be on your way in seconds.

46. Every-thing is harder to see after dark.
Even You. Adjust your headlights, Carry a clear face shield and have your game all the way on after dark, especially during commuter hours.

47. Don't troll next to or right behind Mr. Peterbilt.
If one of those 18 retreads blows up which they do with some regularity it de-treads, and that can be ugly. Unless you like dodging huge chunks of flying rubber, keep your distance.

48. Take the panic out of panic stops.
Develop an intimate relationship with your front brake. Seek out some safe, open pavement. Starting slowly, find that fine line between maximum braking and a locked wheel, and then do it again, and again.

49. Make your tires right.
None of this stuff matters unless your skins are right. Don't take em for granted Make sure pressure is spot-on every time you ride. Check for cuts, nails and other junk they might have picked up, as well as general wear.

50. Take a deep breath.
Count to 10. Smile at the idiot. Forgetting some clowns 80-mph indiscretion beats running the risk of ruining your life, or ending it.

Heed these words and your potential for survival just went up - exponentially!

The old saying goes... there are two kinds of riders... those who have already crashed... and those who will. Unfortunately, it seems to be true.

Let me say up front that the tips you are about to read are NOT the end-all or be-all of safety information, but rather an accumulation of proven tips contributed by a vast group of experienced and seasoned riders from all over the globe. Some

of the tips you’ll already know... some not. In this sport... knowledge and a sharp mind are prerequisites to staying alive. My hope is that after perusing these tips, at the very least, you’ll be a safer...more informed rider. When all’s said and done, we all know that deep down the hobby that brings us together is godawful dangerous no matter how good we are... or how lucky we are. Thanks to all my riding brethren for the wonderful and even insightful contributions...With that said.... enjoy.

with the Sun; you’ll be comin’ round the mnt. Rubbernecking or whatever and then BLAMMM sun in face. Wind, the wind generally follows the Sun. The

What can the Leader(s) of the group do to keep this from happening? There are a few things that the riders can do to keep their group together as well as make their ride safer. As the lead rider approaches a light that is about to change, he/she has a few options:

If there is enough space & time and it is safe to do so, slowdown and let the light change before the group arrives
Pull over after passing the light or slow down so that the rest of the group can catch up without having to do excessive speeds

When passing slower traffic:

Do not pass until there is enough room for all riders to pass (if the group is relatively small)
After passing a vehicle, make enough room for the riders behind you. You don’t want to stand another rider in “no man’s land” (the wrong side of the yellow line) with oncoming traffic

The most important thing that a group can do to make their ride more enjoyable and safer is to be organized. The entire group should know the destination of the ride, as well as the route being taken. Also there should be designated rest stop as well as meeting spots in case the group does get separated. What this does is take pressure of riders who are separated from the rest of the group. Riders will be less inclined to ride over their heads in an effort to try and catch up/ keep up with the group, if they know that everyone will be waiting for them at a certain gas station, restaurant etc up the road. This is particularly true of newer riders, who might be uncomfortable with the pace set by more experienced riders in the group. Cell phones are also a good idea in case of an emergency (fall, mechanical failure, etc); the rest of the group can be contacted and kept apprised of the situation.

Group Riding 101

When riding in a group the riders should ride in what is called “Staggered Formation”, diagram 5.1 depicts this staggered formation in action. As we can see the leader is in the left portion of the lane (blocking position). The next rider is 1 second behind the leader, in the right portion of the lane. The third rider is in the left portion of the lane, 2 seconds behind the leader and 1 second behind the second rider. And the forth rider is 2 seconds behind the second rider.

The easiest way to judge following distance is by using time. While following a vehicle, choose a stationary object up ahead (a tree, sign, light standard, etc). As the vehicle in front of you passes the object, start counting until you pass the same object. Ideally you want a minimum of two seconds between you and the rider directly in front of you.

Note: The lead rider should always assume the blocking position for the lane that the group is riding in, when the group changes lanes then the leader should again assume the blocking position and the other riders stagger themselves accordingly.

This “Staggered Formation” provides safety for a group in two ways:

Size – the group is more compact, you can imagine how long this group of 4 riders would be if they were riding single file. The last rider would be off the diagram. Also the more spread out a group is the more it invites car drivers to attempt to merge between riders
Space – every rider in the group has a safety cushion around him/ her, 2 seconds in front and behind as well as room to maneuver from side to side to avoid debris, potholes etc.

Note: There will be situations when it will be safer for the group to use the single file formation. These would include:

Turns
On/Off Ramps
Streetcar tracks
Passing slower vehicles
Construction Zones
Narrow Bridges
Roads with parked cars

When passing slower vehicles (diagram 5.2), each rider should spend as little time as possible in “no man’s land”. The group should not try to pass together. If something were to happen some riders could be caught on the wrong side of the yellow line, with on-coming traffic rapidly approaching.

The Leader

In every group there is a leader, but what makes a good leader? Does the rider with the most experience make the best leader? Not necessarily! Just because a rider has a high level of skill doesn’t mean that he/ she will make a good leader. “Good skills are irrelevant in the absence of good judgment!” To be a leader a rider must be able to set a pace that every one in the group can follow safely. He or she must also be able to plan ahead and communicate to the other members of the group. Making last minute turns, stops, lane changes, etc will catch other riders off guard and can lead to disaster.

If you are a leader who constantly loses slower riders in the group, you are not doing a good job of leading. A good leader also has to be able to follow others as well. “If you cannot follow others, how do you expect others to follow you?”

Chase Rider

As well as having a leader, a group should also have a chase rider, the last rider in the group. This rider’s duty is to keep an eye on the riders in front of him/ her. This should also be a rider with a fair amount of experience. If something were to happen (a fall, mechanical failure, etc) to a rider near the back of the group, the chase rider will be there to deal with the situation.

One of the biggest problems with riding in a group is that speeds can get out of hand quickly. Normally the ride starts off at legal speeds, then one rider ups the pace a little, and then the next rider will up the ante. Before you know it the group is doing speeds well above the legal limit. How do you keep this from happening? The best way to that I can suggest to keep this from happening is to ride with people that you know and trust. Personally if I ride with someone for the first time and they do something that put others at risk I will not ride with that person again period! I have better things to do than scrape someone off the road.

“Riding in a group is not about competing with each other; it’s about working together as a unit. If you want to compete go to the track!”

The following information is a guide only and no responsibility for any damage to your bike is accepted by Red Knights Alberta 4

How to store your bike for the winter.

From: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/index.html Motorcycle infor and accessories by Mark Lawrence.

The best solution is to move someplace where you never get snowed in more than 3 days at a time. A man has to have his priorities. If for some inexplicable reason this is not an option for you, here's an alternative. Here is a printable checklist.

Find a nice place for your bike to spend the winter. You want to avoid water condensation. Water condensing in the engine or exhaust pipes can cause rust. You can guard against water condensation by keeping your bike somewhere where the temperature doesn't change so very much, like never below 50f. Your living room is a great place, although if you're married I concede that your wife will likely have a different view on this point. A heated and secure garage would be good. An unheated garage is next best. Outdoors under a waterproof tarp where the bike is sometimes in the sun is the worst possible location. The daily heating and cooling under a waterproof tarp is guaranteed to cause water condensation. Avoid wind, dripping water, damp and musty places, and vermin. Another thing to avoid is a garage holding a dryer which is not vented to the outside. Make certain your dryer is vented, or you'll pay an extraordinarily high price. Unvented dryers have been known to lead to completely seized up motors.
Completely wash the bike and dry the bike. Wax the bike and polish all the shiny bits.
Clean and lube the chain.
Fill the tires with air to their max load spec - see the sidewalls. This helps prevent flat spots.
Gasoline oxidizes as it ages. This produces varnish as a byproduct, which is bad for carburetor jets and fuel injector outlets. To avoid this use a fuel stabilizer. Add the amount recommended on the bottle in the tank and fill the tank completely with gasoline - a full gas tank won't rust internally. Run the engine for a couple minutes to warm up the engine oil and to get the stabilizer into your carbs/fuel injectors.
Now that the engine is warm, change the oil and filter. Storing a bike with used oil is not a good idea. Water vapor and condensation in your crankcase oil will combine at room temperature with sulpher to form sulphuric acid. This is a bad thing. The sulpher mostly gets into the oil as combustion by-products, so if the oil is new, this is not a problem.
Synthetic oils have a big advantage for winter storage. The increased film strength of synthetic oils means it takes considerably longer for the oil to all drain down to the oil pan, so when you finally do start your engine there's still a little oil on all the bearings. Also, synthetics offer superior protection for cold weather starts. If you drained out normal oil and replaced it with synthetic, you have to start the motor and run it for a minute to get the synthetic oil pumped all throughout the motor.
Remove the air filter, start the engine and spray the specified amount of Engine Fogging Oil into the airbox. This will coat the inside of the engine to prevent condensation and rust. Shown are fogging oil products by Briggs and Stratton, Yamaha, Pennzoil, Golden Eagle.
If you have carburetors, turn off your fuel and drain your float bowls. If you have fuel injection, start the bike and run it for a minute to get the fuel lines filled with stabilized gas.
Spray Pledge furniture wax on any chrome, or polished or raw aluminum.
Clean and treat all leather with saddle soap and a good leather oil.
Treat plastics and vinyl with Armor all. If you really want to go nuts, you can Armor all your tires and hydraulic hoses too. Alternatively, use a silicon spray like Tire Black.
Put some motor oil all over the front fork tubes. Get on the bike, hold the front brake and bounce the bike up and down to work the front suspension. This will keep the rubber seals from drying out and protect the exposed fork tube.
Check your battery, make sure it’s full. If not, add distilled water. Use a trickle charger every four weeks or even better, get a "Battery Tender" and leave it on 24/7.
Check your radiator level, add aluminum safe antifreeze as necessary.
Put the bike on its center stand to take as much weight off the wheels as possible. The tires don't like to sit in one place with weight on them for a long time. This is a bigger problem if you live in a city with smog, as the ozone makes this problem a lot worse. On the center stand the bike is almost balanced, so the rear tire is in the air and the front tire has only maybe 50 pounds on it.
Use plastic wrap and rubber bands to seal the outlets of the mufflers. Also seal the engine air intake, if you can get to it.
Use a good breathable motorcycle cover to keep the dust off. Don't use plastic covers, they trap moisture. An old sheet works great.
Before you start the bike again, remember to remove the plastic wrap from the exhaust pipes and airbox inlets, and wipe the Pledge wax off the exhaust pipes. If your memory is as bad as mine, you might tape a note to yourself over the ignition keyhole. You don't have to worry about the fuel stabilizer, it will just burn away.
You can just leave the bike in this condition for many months. You don't have to worry about valve springs - modern valve springs that are made to allow the engine to rev to 8000+ rpm won't sag. If you're so desperate for a motorcycle fix that you simply have to start it, make certain to run it for at least 5 minutes or so. Starting your engine for, say, 30 seconds is a bad idea - you pay the extra wear and tear price of starting an engine where the oil is cold and has all sunk to the sump, and you don't heat the oil and exhaust up enough to boil off sulphurics and water vapor. Remember to open the garage door while the engine is running.

Group motorcycle riding